From the archives: December 06, 2009
Days of excess are behind us--at least for now. Instead, the last 365 ushered in a wealth of neighborhood gems, some presided over by star chefs. Most have counter-service; all share a penchant for a rusticity while relying heavily on seasonal ingredients. From modern-but-earthy Italian flavors to avant-Asian treats and complexly flavored, street food-inspired eats, one thing’s for sure: Chicagoans are reaping the rewards. (Photo: XOCO)
Report AbuseTop 10 Restaurants
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Birchwood Kitchen
Write a Review2211 W North Ave, Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
Sure, you step up to order, but this urban-cozy storefront from Pastoral fromager Daniel Sirko is anything but ordinary. Scented with house-roasted meats, it’s where the likes of smoky speck with celery root cream and truffle oil on ciabatta are de rigueur. A create-your-own sandwich board and salad with market-driven ingredients and homemade mozzarella continue the theme.
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XOCO
Read Reviews449 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60654 (map)
Lines snake out the door of this narrow, counter-service stunner from Rick Bayless. But here, unlike at Topolobampo, there is no haute. Pibil tortas, fragrant with achiote, are plucked from the wood-burning oven and caldos--come afternoon--contain slow-cooked carnitas and potato-masa dumplings. Mornings are great, too; fresh-made churros beg to be dunked in homemade hot chocolate.
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Nightwood
Read Reviews2119 S Halsted St, Chicago, IL 60608 (map)
Comfortably hip Pilsen restaurant from the crew behind Lula Cafe does simple, locally focused food.
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cibo matto
Read Reviews201 N State St, Chicago, IL 60601 (map)
More scene-driven than its ’09 contemporaries, this theWit-centered, second-floor dining room with a sexy-strange ceiling fresco keeps things affordable while turning out oft-changing dishes like bucatini carbonara and bone-in skate wing picatta with Brussels sprouts
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Terzo Piano
Write a Review159 E Monroe St, Chicago, IL 60603 (map)
The setting alone--in the Renzo Piano-designed wing of the Art Institute--drops jaws. Fortunately, this sustainable, mostly lunchtime spot from Spiaggia chef Tony Mantuano elicits its own “oohs” and “ahhs.” The reason? Dishes such as grilled, sliced Midwestern beef tagliata with local veggies and Anson Mills polenta.
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Belly Shack
Read Reviews1912 N Western Ave, Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
On the surface, Asian and Latin flavors make strange bedfellows, but under the watchful eye of Urban Belly’s Bill Kim, garlicky chimichurri-saturated tostones and pitas filled with minted meatballs and rice noodles make sense. Just don’t forget when placing your order at the counter, that the creatively topped homemade ice cream (lime zest and huckleberries, anyone?) is a must.
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Browntrout
Write a Review4111 N Lincoln Ave, Chicago, IL 60613 (map)
Modern American in execution, this restaurant plucks its produce from local purveyors and serves it communally in quaint surrounds. Following suit, sustainable fish and seafood and free-range meat dishes--think Mint Creek Farms lamb pot au feu--never overreach. Instead, they’re prepared with restraint, allowing the integrity of ingredients to shine through.
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Zebda
Read Reviews4344 N Elston Ave., Chicago, IL 60641 (map)
Unpretentious and utterly unexpected along an uninspiring stretch of Albany Park, this Mediterranean and Moroccan deli specializes in pastilles, Algerian flatbreads and homemade falafel. From desserts to a daily tagine that can be grabbed to go, it feeds your need to have an effortless dinner party, pronto.
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Chilam Balam
Read Reviews3023 N Broadway St, Chicago, IL 60657 (map)
A veteran of Frontera Grill decided to go it alone, opening this sub-level BYOB where farm-driven Mexican plates like shareable pasilla-glazed ribs with radishes, plantains and crema create a stir. Needless to say, more substantial dishes, such as Cornish hen in almond, olive, red chile and raisin-backed Oaxacan Mole Almendrado--are every bit as enticing as the hibiscus flan.
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Big Star
Read Reviews1531 N Damen Ave, Chicago, IL 60622 (map)
Paul Kahan--plus vets from Avec, Blackbird, The Publican, Sonotheque and the Violet Hour--can hardly keep up with demand at this taqueria-slash-bar. Maybe that’s because the spit-roasted, $2 pastor tacos, craft American whiskeys and rare tequilas--served in a sparse former garage--feel as down-home as the country tunes playing on the juke.