Roy's

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
The theme may be Hawaiian, but don't expect leis and piped-in Don Ho records--this roomy River North space is sophisticated and classy, with upholstered chairs and banquettes, crimson-stained tabletops, and contemporary, island-inspired art. Big picture windows open up the room and let the city in, and the space buzzes with corporate diners and couples on dates.

The Food
Yamaguchi's "Hawaiian Fusion" cuisine blends the exotic flavors and spices of the islands with fresh local ingredients. Start with the dim sum-style canoe, an appetizer sampler including Szechuan style ribs, spicy coconut shrimp and a patty of tuna tartare. Among entrees, Roy's signature blackened ahi is a kick--lightly seared, buttery tuna in a soy-mustard butter that slowly tightens its spicy grip on the back of your throat. In contrast, macadamia nut-crusted whitefish is soothingly mellow. Yamaguchi even manages to make poi--taro root paste, a bland Hawaiian tradition--taste good, using just a hint of it as a condiment for tender honey-mustard beef short ribs with mashed potatoes.