Vermilion

Jennifer Olvera

Citysearch

The Scene
When pulled, gauzy curtains create intimate nooks within this wood-beamed dining room with black and white photography hung on red-painted and silver brick walls. A well-heeled, multi-generational crowd congregates around a glossy red bar to sip intoxicating herbed, spiced cocktails before sliding into curvaceous white leather banquettes or dark wood chairs at linen-topped tables. Informative, friendly servers up the ante.

The Food
A fiery--not to mention, sexy--blend of Indian and Latin cuisines finds its stride among small plates. Crisp, fragrant potato and garbanzo bean-filled pastry cups have interactive appeal since diners fill them with lush, refreshing cilantro water and pop them into mouths whole. Shrimp slathered with inky, peanut-studded tamarind sauce is brightened by crunchy moong bean-daikon slaw. Tropical lobster, shrimp and tilapia ceviche with mango, mint and ginger belies inclement weather. Among entrees, tender tandoori skirt steak delivers big flavor, but chili-glazed ribs leave a bitter taste.

Hits
Tapas dishes are varied. The wonderful sauces deserve to be sopped up with sides of chewy house-made roti or naan.

Misses
While the specialty "herb and spice" cocktails are interesting, some sound better on paper. For example, the pear and coriander martini is gritty toward the bottom, and the tamarind margarita has a biting edge.