Chicago >Trattoria 31
Comfortable Bridgeport neighborhood spot adds to the growing number of dining options on the South Side..
Located in a traditionally Italian part of Bridgeport, the large storefront space is clean and unfussy, with tables generously spaced and groupings of black-and-white photographs of the city's early neighborhoods decorating the walls. The standard Frank-and-Dean restaurant soundtrack is mixed with contemporary Italian vocalists.
The regional Italian menu features perfectly sauced pastas and spot-on seasoning. Starters include mussels sauteed in a garlicky broth of tomatoes, white wine and spicy sausage. The tender gnocchetti in cheese sauce is worth the ensuing elevated cholesterol levels, and creamy papardelle tossed with snow peas and porcini and crimini mushrooms has a pronounced smoky flavor thanks to the applewood bacon. For secondi, chicken alla Romana is juicy, subtly seasoned with rosemary, and filling. The crunchy, lemony, fresh-filled cannoli is a dessert standout, just short of street-vended Sicilian perfection.
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