Trattoria Trullo

Evanston transplant finds a home for southern Italian fare amidst other ethnic restaurants and quaint shops in Lincoln Square.. The Scene
Sidewalk seating and large French doors, opened to reveal breezes on warm days, beckon passersby; aggressively seasoned, comforting fare brings them back. Inside a casual cafe, marble-topped wine bar and deli with imported meats, cheeses and olives hint at the Puglian preparations in store. Trompe l'oeil vines wind around columns in the wood-trimmed, black and white photo-adorned dining rooms at the rear of the space.

The Food
Greek-inflected Italian fare from Italy's southeastern most region inspires the menu at this welcoming spot. Tender, fried calamari with complex, spicy tomato sauce and ribbons of homemade grilled sausage atop biting chicory-fava bean puree give way to silken risotto specked with sun-dried tomatoes, lobster and shrimp. A blanket of bubbly mozzarella belies savory Italian sausage and garlicky veal scallopine beneath; chicken saltimbocca-bundled with crisp prosciutto-reveals the pronounced flavor, and scent, of fresh sage. Mascarpone-topped, rum-soaked tiramisu delivers a lush sugar fix.

Hits: Servers are extremely friendly and genuinely concerned that diners enjoy their experience--so much so that they rush to the kitchen the moment a complaint about dishes is lodged.

Misses: While selections are full of flavor, on occasion they're too salty.…