Cafe 103

Fred Schlatter

Citysearch

The Scene
Located on a commercial drag of otherwise sleepy 103rd, the space is as small as it appears from the street. A single room seats 30, the biggest table for five. Zebra wood veneer plays nicely with weathered wood floors, autumn-colored wall panels and textured, subtly printed wallpaper. A few strategically placed mirrors are unnecessary; the close quarters are quaint rather than cramped.

The Food
Chef Thomas Eckert's menu departs from typical upscale neighborhood cafes. He is brave, offering a composed salad of jewel-like heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers and a lone half-shell oyster. He knows pure yumminess in another starter: Rabbit rillettes with fig jam, grilled harvest baguette and rock salt. Entrees feature pristine meats in stylish compositions: A frenched veal chop is hearty alongside fall-spiced spaetzle, chanterelles and buttermilk onion rings, while slices of guinea hen roulade couldn't be more refined arranged with purees of watercress and kohlrabi and more buttery mushrooms.

Hits: The food outshines many, many downtown efforts. Chef Eckert is a genuine guy who will likely visit your table to see how things were. Convenient, as you will no doubt want to thank him for an excellent dinner.

Misses: Chef Eckert's food is delicious, but overwrought presentation can be a little distracting. Just like the location, simpler plating would be a welcome departure.