Lockwood
Chicago, IL 60603
Phone: (312) 917-3404
- Price:
- $$$$
- Directions:
- El: Orange Line to Madison/Wabash
- Hours:
- Sun-Thu 6:30am-10pm , Fri-Sat 6:30am-11pm
Editorial Review for Lockwood – by Fred Schlatter
The Scene
The century-old opulence of the lobby is tempered by diaphanous curtains, colored acrylic panels and modern fixtures as guests pass into the restaurant space. Original flair remains in travertine marble and ornate chandeliers. Serious-looking business types occupy most of the velvet booths and sleek white chairs, accounting for the tame vibe. Post-theater groups and lively couples keep things this side of dull.
The Food
Chef Phillip Foss jumps creatively between Italian and French, but without deviating from a hearty meat-starch-vegetable formula. Notable starters include lobster bisque that seems enriched but without cream. FauxGras is a nod to Chicago's ban, transforming normal livers into a rich terrine. Entrees are substantial, like crispy chicken quarters paired with mustard-dressed frisee, potatoes Lyonnaise and a poached egg. Pork lovers will fawn over a prosciutto-wrapped Kurobuta tenderloin sliced over grits.
Hits
The food and decor nails that continental cool found in hotels abroad but without forfeiting a grounded American style.
Misses
Service can be choppy, perhaps suffering under its own attentiveness and miscommunication between the many servers.
Editorial content is independent of paid advertisers. Any expenses are paid for by Citysearch.
Insider Tips
ParkingTake advantage of the snappy valet here. It's a little pricey ($16) but your car will be waiting as you finish your meal.
The ExtrasWork in the Loop? The kitchen opens at 6:30am serving gussied up versions of eggs benedict and continental breakfasts.
Where to SitIf you don't feel like the main dining room, order from the abbreviated menu. You'll be served in the original lobby where the bar crowd spills out.
User Reviews for Lockwood
06/03/2008 Posted by comparatively
"Your question's taken care of it." I understand people might want to feel they're getting attentive service when they shell out $80 a person but there is such a thing as too much hovering and this place certainly fits the bill. Waiters who swoop in and out at a breathtaking pace may make some people feel like royalty, but I just wanted them to leave me to my meal and my dinner partner. As for the food, it feels like an episode of Top Chef: everything is "fancy" with regards to ingredients and presentation but the imagination and the surprising tastes are not there for the prices. You do better at a joint like Avec, where they get creative without being a caricature of a "fine" dining establishment. Also, beware, they may separate the lamb from the wrack (sic, citysearch seems to think I'm trying to be inappropriate with the correct spelling), but that doesn't mean they got all the little bits of bone off. Oh and don't order the creme brulee, which is substandard. As for the pluses: portions are generous for this type of establishment and the drinks were good.
Pros: Classy
Cons: Insufferable service, overpriced and unimaginative food
05/05/2008 Posted by astrochick
We were excited to try the place after reading the great review in the Tribune. But what a disappointment. We were seated just inside the entrance, so didn't really get to see any of the restaurant and had to listen to the wedding party in the lobby outside. We ordered a Goose Island IPA from the limited beer list, and got a Fat Tire instead; when we summoned the waiter to return it, he came back to say that they were out of the Goose. We found it a bit condescending that they had poured another beer and tried to pass it off as our order, instead of simply telling us they were out of the Goose in the first place. Frankly, insulting, as we do know the difference between the two. In addition, we paid $46 for a halibut dish that included morels. Husband is a big fan of morels, as they grow all over the countryside of his hometown and he grew up eating them; however, these were full of sand and grit, obviously not washed carefully. He couldn't even eat most of them--and for $46! We probably should have complained, but had already done so with the beer and basically just wanted to get out of there. All in all, a waste of $170 and 2 hours.
Pros: good waitstaff
Cons: poor bar staff, poor food preparation
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