Ai Japanese Restaurant

Valerie Moloney

Citysearch

The Scene
Exposed brick, soaring ceilings and soothing beige tones appeal to urbanites in this loft-dwellers' neighborhood sushi lounge. An octagonal-shaped sushi station--left from Kizoku--acts as the main centerpiece, staffed with friendly and efficient chefs. A half-dozen or so tables to two occupy the area directly across them, while faux-suede booths provide snug seating in the left corner. The crowd leans late twenty- and early thirtysomethings dolled up for post-dinner partying.

The Food
A celebrated Tokyo-trained chef doles out innovative rolls and entrees artfully arranged. Sweet, soy-marinated slices of beef and pinky finger-sized shrimp sizzle on a toban pan, making for an eye-catching, crowd-pleasing interactive appetizer. Signature rolls venture down sweet and savory paths, from tuna and mango pairing complemented by creamy avocado and koshyu grape sauce to a crunchy eel treated tempura-style with tamago and leafy spinach. Shime saba, or marinated mackarel, pops with salty, vinegar-like flavor. Dessert--an afterthought--revolves around uninspired ice cream.

Hits
While sushi is the star, the menu sates fuller appetites with selections like wasabi filet mignon and parmesan salmon teriyaki. A sexy, low-lit lounge at the rear of the restaurant provides locals with no reason to leave their neighborhood.

Misses
The tables for two lined up in the middle of the restaurant leave little room for the massive plates.