Hearty

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Carly Boers

Joined 4 years ago

Citysearch Editorial Review. It’s ‘50s and ‘60s comfort classics like mom didn’t make at this throwback eatery in Lakeview helmed by the Hearty Boys (Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh). Casually dressed neighbors fill the banquette-style tables, mingling over mellow tunes and sampling clever resurrections of tired old dishes like tuna noodle casserole, which is deconstructed and retooled to become a delicate, modern mélange of seared ahi, pureed peas and dried sweet peas, egg noodles and light cream sauce. Desserts, like a pudding flight starring a complex and grainy New England Indian pudding, are equally innovative. The welcoming, come-as-you-are ambience mirrors that of the owners; they are often found jovially roaming the dining room, chatting up customers like friends at a party.