Chalkboard

02/23/07

North Center gem schools patrons in tweaked regional American food and old-fashioned hospitality.

by Fred Schlatter at Citysearch

The Scene
The sleepy storefront is recognizable as a buzzing restaurant only when close enough to peer inside. A foyer is clad in bronze jacquard wallpaper. The small dining room features white molding and wainscoting and handsome chandeliers throwing warm light. The namesake chalkboard is dramatic, running the far wall's length. Linen-clad tables are pleasantly spaced and conversation kept to a hum. A tiny bar distributes mostly wine through an efficient, well-informed staff.

The Food
Chef Gilbert Langlois creates seasonal menus with certain regional finesse. Potent appetizers include succulent scallops with chicken confit, fried sage and truffled pea puree, and an anise flavored salad with cured tomatoes and poached egg. Entrees stick to hearty meat and starch duos. Beef stew is actually seared skirt dressed with braised vegetables and their gravy--delicious. Crispy bass is pitch-perfect with bacon risotto. A gloriously crunchy Southern-fried chicken quarter cries for seasoning, as does a duck entree, but benefit from tasty accompaniments: sausage gravy-mashed potatoes and a duxelle-stuffed raviolo, respectively.