Bella Rosa Ristorante and Galleria

12/05/07

Contemporary River North restaurant and gallery serves Italian eats in an intimate, low-lit storefront.

by Jennifer Olvera at Citysearch

The Scene
Colorful, surrealist artwork-courtesy of the owner-adorns the brick walls of this narrow, quiet trattoria. To the left, a vintage Art Deco bar gently illuminates sports-tuned flat-screens. A handful of candlelit tables to the right may or may not fill with diners; regardless, Rat Pack tunes keep the spirit light. Service, although well intentioned, could be more knowledgeable and attentive.

The Food
Italian classics--some with interesting takes--populate the large menu. A mound of puffy, fried gnocchi arrive with warm parsley and garlic-zapped olive oil for dipping. A mixed green salad sports sprightly balsamic vinaigrette, yet super-garlicky margherita pizza and prosciutto-wrapped filet with grape-brandy sauce lack oomph. Crisp-skinned, pepper and tomato-draped chicken Bella Rosa is a standout, gushing with wilted spinach and artichokes when cut. Creamy farfalle studded with sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts and portobellos is as richly caloric as the weightless, cocoa-dusted tiramisu.

Hits
The art on the walls is for sale. Alongside each piece is a card that explains the artist's intention.

Misses
Not everything arrives as described. Pasta was missing its Gorgonzola cheese, and a cocktail lacked its sparkling wine.